Techniques and concepts: Foundation paper piecing
New to block lotto? Learn about it here
Fabrics and special notions
Color scheme: Bright, modern, and cheerful.
You’ll need 4 different fabrics:
- A small piece for the center triangle (A1)
- 3 other colours for the logs, in strips that are around 1.5” wide: one colour for all of the B pieces, a different colour for all of the C pieces, and another for the D pieces.
You’ll also need a copy of the template we’re using. If you didn’t pick one up at the November meeting, you can download it here. Be sure to print it at the actual size (100%) and use the 1” test square on the template to check that it printed accurately.
You’ll also need a piece of cardstock (like an old greeting card or a junk mail postcard) or some other thin edge to use when folding the paper. If you do a lot of paper piecing, an Add-a-quarter or Add-a-quarter Plus ruler is handy. They both have a raised lip that makes it easy to trim the ¼” seam allowance when using FPP templates. The “plus” version also has a thin edge to use for folding the paper.
Choose an FPP method
There are several different ways to do FPP. Use your favourite or try a new one:- Traditional FPP: This method uses a template printed on regular paper and you sew through each line on the paper. It’s quick and easy to get started, but picking out the papers when you’re finished can be a pain. If you’d like to use this method, here are some resources:
- Written instructions with photos: Foundation paper piecing tutorial with Liza Taylor (Amy Smart Diary of a Quilter site)
- Video: Fresh Quilting episode about FPP with Violet Craft (MQG site, requires member login)
- Video: How to make a triangle log cabin block - Teresa DownUnder (YouTube)
Tips for traditional FPP:
- Make your stitch length very small to help perforate the paper (I set my machine to 1.5)
- Using a size 14 needle also helps with the perforation.
- Use a strong but fine thread that’ll hold up when ripping off the paper. I usually use Wonderfil DecoBob, which is an 80 wt. polyester thread.
- Freezer paper piecing: I don’t enjoy picking out the papers at the end of an FPP project, so this is the method I prefer. Instead of sewing through the freezer paper, you sew very close to the folded edges, then iron the paper in place to temporarily stick it to the fabric. The beauty of the freezer paper method is that the paper peels off in one piece when you’re done. And you can reuse the paper to make another block! I’ve reused freezer paper templates at least 6 times with no problems.
Note that it’s freezer paper – not waxed paper or parchment paper. Freezer paper is similar to parchment, but it’s got a plastic-y coating on one side, which you use to stick the template to the fabric. I bought a roll at Home Hardware and quilt stores often carry it too. If you were at the November meeting, you may have picked up a square of it along with the template.
Freezer paper piecing is the method I’m going use in the instructions below, and here are some additional resources:
- Video and link to a free guide: Freezer Paper Piecing Tutorial from Bryan House Quilts
- Hybrid: I’m not sure whether there’s an official name for this technique, but you can do something that’s a combination of the two methods mentioned above. With this method, you use a template printed on regular paper, but sew next to the fold like with the freezer paper method. Because the regular paper doesn’t stick like freezer paper, use a little dab of glue stick to hold each piece in place. Resources:
- This is the method that Tara Faughnan uses, so if you have one of her patterns that uses FPP, you’ll likely have the instructions.
- Written instructions with photos: Instructions on the Seattle Modern Quilt Guild site
How to make the block
- Print the template, if you haven’t already. Be sure to print it at the actual size and use the 1” test square on the template to check that it printed accurately.
- If you’re using the freezer paper method, trace the template onto the freezer paper.
- Cut along the outside edge of the triangle (dotted line). The template includes a ¼” seam allowance on the outside edge to allow for joining blocks together later.
- Pre-fold each of the lines on the template towards the printed side. To get accurate folds, it helps to hold something thin (like a piece of cardstock) up to the line that you’re folding.
- Place the first piece of fabric in the center of the back of the block, covering area A1 and extending past it at least ¼” on each side. The right side of the fabric faces out. Adhere the fabric in place. If you’re using freezer paper, press it with a hot, dry iron. Don't iron directly on the shiny side of the paper. Instead, either iron on the dull side, or use a non-stick pressing sheet or piece of parchment paper between the block and your iron.
- Fold the template back on the line between A1 and B1.
- Trim the seam allowance to ¼”.
- Align the second piece of fabric with the trimmed edge of the first one, right sides together. Double-check that the second piece of fabric will cover area B1 on the template. Stitch as close as you can along the edge of the paper, starting and stopping ¼” before and after the line. (Or if you’re doing traditional paper piecing, stitch through the paper.)
- Fold the fabric that you just added back over the template and press in place.
- Repeat steps 6-9 to attach the rest of the of the pieces. For the last round, the pieces should cover a bit beyond the edge of the template.
- Using a regular quilting ruler, trim along the dashed line on the edge of the template.
- Peel off the paper. (Or if you’re doing traditional paper piecing, carefully peel off the paper and pick out any stubborn bits with tweezers.)
Samples
