PIECED (Inset) CIRCLES

Due to popular demand from our Mon Nov 25, 2025 Skill Share, here are the instructions for pieced inset circles per technique from Susan Madu of Modern Blended Quilts.  We can't wait to see all of your circles at the next sew and share😉!

Modern Blended Quilts Inset Circles

Material required:

• Freezer paper

• One sheet of parchment paper 

• Glue stick

• Frame fabric

• Circle fabric

Make Template:

• To make a stiff template you will need two sheets of freezer paper of the same dimension.  Freezer paper should be at least 1.5” - 2” larger than the intended circle

• Trace or photocopy a circle template on the dull side of one sheet of freezer paper

• Layer in this order: parchment (bottom), blank freezer paper shiny side down, template freezer paper shiny side down

• Press to fuse, cool, and cut out the inner circle.

Attach Template to Frame Fabric:

• On an ironing surface, place frame fabric wrong side up.

• Position the template shiny side down and press to adhere.

Make the Circle Opening: 

• Cut out the circle opening, leaving a 3/8” seam allowance.

• Clip the seam allowance at 1⁄4” intervals, stopping 1/8” from the template.

• Working on a quarter of the opening at a time, fold and glue all the tabs onto the inside of the opening in the template.

• Center circle fabric right side down over opening and press to dry glue.

Sew the Inset Circle:

• Shorten stitch length to 2.0

• With fabric right side up, lift the frame fabric from the template and stitch just a smidgen beside the template. Do not backstitch but stitch a few stitches past the start. 

• Press on the right side.

• Trim circle fabric seam allowance to 1⁄4”. Working from the right side, gently release the tabs from the template.

• Press both sides. Trim block to desired size.

November Block Lotto: Triangle Log Cabin FPP

Due: Our next in-person event, in April

Techniques and concepts: Foundation paper piecing

New to block lotto? Learn about it here

 

Fabrics and special notions

Color scheme: Bright, modern, and cheerful.

You’ll need 4 different fabrics: 

• A small piece for the center triangle (A1)
• 3 other colours for the logs, in strips that are around 1.5” wide: one colour for all of the B pieces, a different colour for all of the C pieces, and another for the D pieces. 

Solids or near-solids will give a nice visual impact, but you can also use prints for one or two of fabrics, as long as there’s contrast between the A, B, C, and D fabrics so that each triangle in the block is distinct.

You’ll also need a copy of the template we’re using. If you didn’t pick one up at the November event, you can download it here. Be sure to print it at the actual size (100%) and use the 1” test square on the template to check that it printed accurately.

Also helpful: a piece of cardstock (like an old greeting card or a junk mail postcard) or some other thin edge to use when folding the paper. If you do a lot of paper piecing, an Add-a-quarter or Add-a-quarter Plus ruler is handy. They both have a raised lip that makes it easy to trim the ¼” seam allowance when using FPP templates. The “plus” version also has a thin edge to use for folding the paper.

Choose an FPP method

There are several different ways to do FPP. Use your favourite or try a new one:

• Traditional FPP: This method uses a template printed on regular paper and you sew through each line on the paper. It’s quick and easy to get started, but picking out the papers when you’re finished can be a pain. If you’d like to use this method, here are some resources:
• Written instructions with photos: Foundation paper piecing tutorial with Liza Taylor (Amy Smart Diary of a Quilter site)
• Video: Fresh Quilting episode about FPP with Violet Craft (MQG site, requires member login)
• Video: How to make a triangle log cabin block - Teresa DownUnder (YouTube)

Tips for traditional FPP:

• Make your stitch length very small to help perforate the paper (I set my machine to 1.5) 
• Using a size 14 needle also helps with the perforation.
• Use a strong but fine thread that’ll hold up when ripping off the paper. I usually use Wonderfil DecoBob, which is an 80 wt. polyester thread.
• Freezer paper piecing: I don’t enjoy picking out the papers at the end of an FPP project, so this is the method I prefer. Instead of sewing through the paper, you sew very close to the folded edges, then iron the freezer paper in place to temporarily stick it to the fabric. The beauty of the freezer paper method is that the paper peels off in one piece when you’re done. And you can reuse the paper to make another block! I’ve reused freezer paper templates at least 6 times with no problems. 

Note that it’s freezer paper – not waxed paper or parchment paper. Freezer paper is similar to parchment, but it’s got a plastic-y coating on one side, which you use to stick the template to the fabric. I bought a roll at Home Hardware and quilt stores often carry it too. If you were at the November event, you may have picked up a square of it along with the template.

Freezer paper piecing is the method shown in the instructions below, and here are some additional resources: 

• Video and link to a free guide: Freezer Paper Piecing Tutorial from Bryan House Quilts
• Hybrid: I’m not sure whether there’s an official name for this technique, but you can do something that’s a combination of the two methods mentioned above. With this method, you use a template printed on regular paper, but sew next to the fold like with the freezer paper method. Because the regular paper doesn’t stick like freezer paper, use a little dab of glue stick to hold each piece in place. Resources:
• This is the method that Tara Faughnan uses, so if you have one of her patterns that uses FPP, you’ll likely have the instructions. 
• Written instructions with photos: Instructions on the Seattle Modern Quilt Guild site

How to make the blocks (freezer paper method)

Note: If you'd prefer to use traditional paper piecing or the hybrid method instead, feel free!

1. Print the template, if you haven’t already. Be sure to print it at the actual size and use the 1” test square on the template to check that it printed accurately.
2. Trace the template onto the freezer paper. 
3. Cut along the outside edge of the triangle (dotted line). The template includes a ¼” seam allowance on the outside edge to allow for joining blocks together later. 
   
   
   
4. Pre-fold each of the lines on the template towards the printed side. To get accurate folds, it helps to hold something thin (like a piece of cardstock) up to the line that you’re folding. 
   
5. Place the first piece of fabric in the center of the back of the block, covering area A1 and extending past it at least ¼” on each side. The right side of the fabric faces out. Adhere the fabric in place. If you’re using freezer paper, press it with a hot, dry iron. Don't iron directly on the shiny side of the paper. Instead, either iron on the dull side, or use a non-stick pressing sheet or piece of parchment paper between the freezer paper and your iron.
   

   
   
6. Fold the template back on the line between A1 and B1.  
   
   
   
7. Trim the seam allowance to ¼”. 
   
8. Align the second piece of fabric with the trimmed edge of the first piece, right sides together. Double-check that the second piece of fabric will cover area B1 on the template. Stitch as close as you can along the edge of the paper, starting and stopping ¼” before and after the line. 
   
   
   
9. Fold the fabric that you just added back over the template and press in place. 
   
   
   
10. Repeat steps 6-9 to attach the rest of the of the pieces. For the last round, the pieces should cover a bit beyond the edge of the template.
11. Using a regular quilting ruler, trim along the dashed line on the edge of the template. 
    
    
    
12. Peel off the paper. 
    
    
    
    
    

    Samples

    
      
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    

October Block Lotto: Side Stripe

Due: Bring your blocks to the November 24 event

Techniques and concepts: Two-at-a-time HSTs and trimming HSTs

New to block lotto? Learn about it here

 

We’ll follow the colour suggestions for the original block. If you follow the instructions on the MQG site, please cut two additional 1” x 8-1/2” strips so that you end up with two blocks. You can also follow the instructions below, which include a couple of extra tips.

Fabrics and cutting

Background fabric

Choose a white or a very light colour, in either a solid or near-solid.

• Cut 2 squares, 7-½” x 7-½”

Other fabrics 

Choose an assortment of bright colours. Ideally, each of these pieces is a different colour because we’re going for a bright and scrappy look.

• Cut 2 squares, 7 ½” x 7 ½”
• Cut 4 strips, 1” x 8 ½”

Steps

1. On the wrong side of the two light squares, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. 
   
   
2. Pair a white square and bright square, right sides together. Sew ¼” away from each side of the marked line. Repeat for second set of squares.
   
   
   
     
3. Cut along the marked line, creating two half-square triangles (HSTs). Press seams towards the darker fabric. Do not trim. (Repeat for other square)
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. Place a quilt ruler along the diagonal seam of one HST. Cut across the light side, 1 ¼” from the seam. (Repeat for other squares)
   
   
   

   
   

   

   
   
5. Align one of the 1” x 8 ½” strips along the cut edge. To align the pieces, fold them in half and mark the centre point by pressing it with your fingernail or marking it with a pin. (Repeat for other squares)
   
   

   

   (Sorry for the continuity error here - I switched to the other set of squares for the rest of the photos)

   
   
6. Sew the seam and then press it towards the strip. (Repeat for other squares) 
   
   
   
7. Use the same technique to mark the centre of the edge of the strip and the centre of an offcut triangle. 
   
   
   
8. Stitch together and then press the seam towards the strip. (Repeat for other squares)
9. Trim the HST units to 6 ½” square. When trimming, take care to place the 45-degree line on your ruler along the centre seam of the HST. 
   
   
   
10. Sew two HST units together, matching the strips and background fabric edges. Press the seam to one side.



At this point, you should have two blocks that measure 12-1/2” x 6-1/2”. 

If you win the blocks, see the instructions on the MQG site for a suggestion on how to assemble and finish the quilt. 

Ornament Swap

Welcome back to another exciting guild year! We're going to start everybody off with the first swap of the year, so get your holiday fabric stash out.

 

The first swap will be quilted ornaments! In order to participate in the swap, you must submit an ornament. You're welcome to submit more than one!

A few guidelines to ensure a consistent swap:

• The ornament must be made from fabric, with some sewing recommended. (Other materials can also be used along with fabric. For instance, styrofoam, stuffing, pins, buttons, etc)
• Keep it simple! Please submit ornaments (not wall hangings, not table runners) that are small and can be hung up.
• Please include a hanging loop.
• Christmas and holiday fabrics are welcome, but not a must!
• Finished size should be 3-4 square inches (roughly the palm of your hand)

 

I've collected a few tutorials and ideas from across the internet. Feel free to use these, or any fun ideas of your own. If you're unsure, reach out to me and we can chat.

Kaleidoscope Star Quilted Christmas Ornament by Hello Sewing

Fabric Christmas Ornament by I See Stars Quilting

A Bit of Cheer by Ann Hermes Mini Quilts

Scandinavian Star Ornaments

Make sure to wrap it, use a gift bag or envelope and submit it to me. Your options are:

• at the October event,
• at the guild retreat
• or drop it at Lee's house by November 16.

 

Please include your name and email address. If you do not submit an ornament, you will not receive one. We will do the swap at the November event, so that we can display our ornaments during the holidays.

 

Have fun!

September Block Lotto: 9-patch Warm Up

Due: Bring your blocks to the October 27 event

Techniques and concepts: Precise cutting and piecing, colour values, twirled seams

New to block lotto? Learn about it here

Welcome to the block lotto for 2025-2026! 

We’re kicking things off with a back-to-basics block to ease into the new guild year. This month’s block is inspired by cozy autumnal plaids and golden afternoons. It’s a straightforward 9-patch block, so it’s a good opportunity to pay extra attention to techniques and accuracy, and to the use of colour to give the blocks a glowy look.

Fabrics and cutting

You’ll need dark, medium, and light values for this block. You can pick three shades of the same colour or mix it up, but please keep it warm. There are a couple of ways that you can check that you’ve got enough contrast between your fabrics:

• Use a Ruby Beholder or similar tool
• Take a photo and use a filter to make it monotone:

Cutting tip: If you’d like a refresher on accurate cutting (I know it’s something I always struggle with), check out Lee Heinrich’s Quilting 101: Accurate cutting. 

Fabric A

Choose a warm dark colour, in either a solid or near-solid.

Cut 1 - 3.5” square

Fabric B

Choose a warm medium colour, in either a solid or print.

Cut 4 – 3.5” squares

Fabric C

Choose a warm light colour, in either a solid or near-solid.

Cut 4 – 3.5” squares

Steps

Before starting, consider testing whether you’re getting an accurate ¼” seam. For instructions, I’d recommend How to Perfect Your Seam Allowance from Lo and Behold Stitchery. 

1. First, make the center row. Take the dark fabric and sew a medium square on two opposite sides. Press the seam allowances in, towards the dark fabric.

2. Next, make the other two rows. Take the medium fabric and sew a light square on two opposite sides. Press the seam allowances out, towards the light fabric.
   

   

3. Join the rows together. Because the rows are pressed in opposite directions, you can nest the seams together tightly. When aligning the seams, slide them into place so they butt up against each other.
   

   

4. To finish the block, there are two options for pressing the rows. You can press the rows away from the middle row, like this:
   

   

   Or, to make the block lay flatter, you can twirl the seams. At the intersections, carefully remove a couple of stitches from the seam allowance. Note that the last two seams joining the rows stay intact. You're only undoing a couple of stitches from previous seams, in the seam allowance.

   
   
   The goal is to allow the seams to lie in opposite directions, like this:
   
   
   Tip: Be careful that you don't end up pressing the seams open -- the seams are pressed to one side. Releasing the stitches in the seam allowances allows you to press in opposite directions.
5. Here's what the back of a twirled block looks like:
   

   When you’re finished, the block should be 9.5” square, which will finish at 9” when the quilt is assembled.

   
   
   

That’s it! Admire your new block, maybe make some more, and share photos with others using #ottmqgBOM.

Here’s a mockup of what a quilt made with these blocks could look like, though keep in mind that if you win the blocks, you can make anything you’d like with them. Maybe slice them up into a disappearing 9-patch instead?